Hemp denim
Known as the ‘miracle’ fibre, hemp has many benefits and uses.
Hemp is a fibre which has a long history and evidence of its use can be found for more than 10,000 years ago. Over the centuries it has had many uses from paper to rope and fabric. However its use fell out of fashion due to it’s link to Marijuana, becoming stigmatised with smear campaigns running through the 20s and 30s. Cotton became a popular alternative due to its softer handfeel and ability to be quickly and cheaply produced. In recent years, due to the need to search for more sustainable alternative fibres, hemp has started to make a come back.
Strong and durable
Breathable
Biodegradable
Anti-microbial
Anti-bacterial
Moisture wicking
Low impact cultivation
Prevents soil erosion
Quick growth cycles of 3-4 months
Resilient to many climates
Carbon sequester
Little to no irrigation
Uses less fertilizer
Replenishes nutrients in the soil
Even with all the positives of hemp there are some limitations and restrictions to bear in mind. Hemp is a coarse fibre that can easily crease similar to linen. Typically it is therefore blended with other fibres such as cotton, modal or lyocell to create a softer handfeel. The coarseness of the fibre can make spinning difficult which can cause irregularities within the finished fabric.
The current use of hemp for denim is still not mainstream, largely due to its high costs. Furthermore, infrastructure is needed to allow the manufacture of hemp production to scale up. Some farmers are restricted by legislation and weavers by machinery; with high start up costs to make it’s production a viable and profitable business.
With that said, many brands are starting to introduce hemp into their ranges and through more common use it will be exciting to see how this fibre is developed further.
For a really interesting listen on this topic I would suggest giving the following a listen: https://youtu.be/lfJT8Qh5WVU
Pangaia
Offer a capsule denim collection of rain-fed hemp blended with organic certified cotton. This has been dyed with natural indigo and treated with PPRMINT™ for longer lasting freshness.
Levis Red™
The Red collection, launched in the early 90s, reinvents the classic 5 pocket jeans. Made from cottonized hemp with a 72% cotton and 28% hemp blend.
Patagonia
Launched a hemp denim workwear range for Fall 21 with a non-degummed hemp blend of 41% Tencel Lyocell 39% organic cotton 20% hemp. They are also researching ways in which to utilise the whole plant, transforming waste into building materials as well as alternatives to plastics and fibre glass.
